Friday, April 24, 2015

GRAND FINALE - February 24 to March 14, 2015

February 24, 2015 - Tuesday - Sea Day

Before I get into today's activities, here is an update on the end of our day in Esperance. After preparing for dinner, I went onto the veranda to see how the tender process was going. It was not, and we were already an hour late in departing for Fremantle/Perth. Midway through dinner the captain came on  the public address system to update us on what was happening. It turned out that the tender we returned on was the last tender because the waves made moving from tender to ship very unsafe. Service would not resume until the seas calmed. That left almost 1,000 passengers and crew on shore at 3 o'clock. Now at 6:30 the captain had arranged for two large power catamarans to take over the tender service. At 7:00 we saw the first cat approach outside the dining room. Even it was buffeted by the waves, but it was far more stable than a tender and the passengers disembarked safely. This was the first of many trips this cat would make before all were back on board.
SEWING STORE


MOVIE THEATER


WAVES ARE BUILDING

OUR TENDER CRASHING THROUGH WAVES


We knew something was amiss because the dining room was almost empty. Our servers had explained the situation. When we went to bed the ship was still not moving. We would learn in the morning what happened.

At breakfast we shared a table with some passengers who had been stuck in Esperance. They could not say enough good things about how Celebrity handled the situation. They had the local yacht club open their kitchen and bar for free food and drink. When the food ran out they sent crew to Subway for more sandwiches. All were comfortable and well fed. Solstice departed for Perth at 11 PM. This was six hours late, but the captain assured us we would arrive in Perth on time. This was important because for many passengers this ended their cruise, and new passengers would be boarding.

We attended another iPad class. Then I went to the Hot Glass how. Alice took some pictures of the Corning team who had made our bowl. The day was otherwise uneventful.

February 25, 2015 - Wednesday - Perth

This is called Perth, but we actually dock in Fremantle. This requires a train trip into Perth. Since we were going on the next leg, we were Passenger in Transit, and had the day free to roam. We had elected to skip any shore excursions and take the train to Perth. When we exited the terminal at 8:30, we asked a member of the Shore Excursions staff how to get to the train station. She had no idea. Nor did any other Solstice personnel we asked. We returned to the terminal an sought out a local volunteer. He told us that we had to cross the parking lot, walk to the bridge over the railroad tracks and turn right on the other side of the tracks. If we just followed that street we would get to the train station. It turned out to be a half hour walk, but we got to the station just in time to catch the train. The one way fare was just $3.50 US per person. 45 minutes later we were in Perth.



As one might expect, the train station is right in the heart of Perth. A short walk brought us to a pedestrian mall and a very nice square. The tourist kiosk was just opening. We got maps and sightseeing literature, and sat down on a bench to chart our route. We knew what we wanted to visit and where things were on the map. Then I tried the internet. As I was doing that a young lady approached us and asked if we needed help. We told her we thought we had it figured out. As she was about to leave, Alice asked her if she knew of any place that might ship a large glass object to the states. She thought for a moment, and then told us that Australia Post has stores that sell packing material and handle international shipments. She thought there was one nearby. She used her phone to get the address. It turned out that it was just around the corner on the large square. We thanked her and started off. She offered to go with us, but we assured her we would not get lost. She said she was manning a booth on the mall and would be there if we did need her.

As we walked around the corner, Alice and I commented on how helpful she had been. We also thought we must look pretty helpless. Half way down the square was Australia Post as promised. Inside I took out a long shoestring in which I had tied knots for the length, width and height of the bowl. We had no measuring tape. Applying the shoestring to the largest box on the shelf, we found that it was too small. A helpful clerk approached and told us he had just received a larger box, and would assemble one for us. The dimensions were just right for a tight fit. This would not due because that left no room for protective wrapping. We thanked him and left.

Back at the mall we found Katie, who had helped us. When we told her how things had turned out, she said she remembered another company that did shipping. It was PackN' Ship. Her phone showed that the closest location was in the suburbs. That would not work for us. Again we thanked her , and headed away.

It was a long, but pleasant, walk to the Bell Tower. This is a tall, modern spire near the ferry terminal. It is quite striking, but currently it is surrounded by construction sites. We walked back toward the mall. 

BELL TOWER

CHURCH WITH NEW CONSTRUCTION

VIEW FROM KING'S PARK

CONSTRUCTION SITE AT WATER'S EDGE IS WHERE BELL TOWER IS LOCATED

A few days ago we had met some Perth residents on the ship. They had highly recommended that we visit King's Park for great views of the city as well as nice gardens. We boarded a free bus near the mall and it took us to the heart of the park at the end of the line. When we got off we were surrounded by tour buses. They were excursions from the ship. I don't know their cost, but ours was nothing. We walked away from these masses and found a quiet walk along the cliff's edge high above the city. The views were special and the gardens were as well. After some nice viewing and walking we boarded the free bus back to the center.

We had seen enough of Perth. We walked to the train station, and boarded the train to Fremantle. It left in 5 minutes. The ride through the suburbs was interesting and quick.

Fremantle provides two free bus routes that start just outside the train station. We waited for the first to come and took the 45 minute ride around town. We viewed shops, museums, industrial sites parks and beaches before returning to our starting point at the train station. As we waited for the bus to arrive for the other free route, I studied its route, and found that if we got off 2 stops before it completed the circuit we should be right at the bridge over the railroad tracks that led to the cruise terminal. The bus arrived and took us in new directions through residential neighborhoods and past schools and more parks. We got off at the stop I had picked. Sure enough, directly across the street was the approach to the bridge. Over the bridge and through the parking lot and we were back to Solstice. As we walked we decided that we would rather have spent more time in Fremantle. Perth is just another big city, while Fremantle is an older city with older architecture and much more character.
FREMANTLE ARCHITECTURE

BRIDGE OVER PARKING LOT AND TRAIN TRACKS TO PIER

Back on board I used the ship's poky internet to search out Pack N' Ship. The corporate website described the services, and highlighted shipping glass, artworks and antiques. They clearly stated that they had a fragile service. The crowning disclosure was that there is one in downtown Darwin. We scheduled a short excursion of Darwin for early the morning we arrived. This would allow for some walking before we returned to the ship to pick up the bowl and walk to Pack N' Ship.

I went to guest services to have our prepaid gratuities benefit changed to the beverage package. Alice had tracked our consumption of orange juice, special coffees, water, non-alcoholic beverages, cocktails and wine during the last seventeen days.  We had one serving of each category per day except for wine, where we had two glasses each day. Our savings exceeded $1,000. That was not due to excessive consumption, but excessive pricing. Orange juice was $3.50, water $3.50, special coffee$6.00, non-alcoholic beverages $6.00, cocktails $9.50 and wine $10.50 per glass. Yikes.

February 26 and 27, 2015 - Thursday and Friday - Sea Days

These were what have become typical days. More lectures, iPad and Hot Glass. Nothing special to report.

February 28, 2015 - Saturday - Port Hedlund, Australia

Port Hedlund ships more iron ore by freighter than any other port in the world. We had been warned by many staff that it was highly likely our clothes would be stained red from the ore dust that blows around. We had also been warned that the heat would be oppressive, so we should buy water before leaving the ship. Our water was free because we have the beverage package.

We were shuttled from the ship to town because there is absolutely no walking in this busy industrial port. When we got off the shuttle we were greeted by locals with maps and free water. Once again, Celebrity suck it to the passengers.

The shuttle stop was at the central market. this was for crafts and baked goods. It was very nice. Again, we had great conversations with the vendors. At one booth the lady called her husband out of the shade to talk to the Americans. He was a train driver. His job is engineer on the two mile long ore trains that come 240 miles from the mines. He really likes his job. We asked if operations had been stopped because the ship was in. there was no red dust blowing around at all. He said they never stop. 24 hours a day every day of the year. Port Hedlund is clearly a company town, but the wages are good and the morale is high. We had a good time. The only downside was that Celebrity had not paid to extend the shuttle service to the shopping mall.

FRIENDLY LOCALS IN PORT HEDLUND
HE IS A TRAIN DRIVER

Alice and I spent a lovely morning touring this area near the port and visiting with the residents. It was extremely hot and very,very humid. We drank more water hear than any where else so far. After a full morning's visit we returned to the ship for lunch. I had an excursion at 2:30 to tour the operating side of the port. This was a bus tour narrated by a company employee. We were never allowed to leave the bus, but they did pass all of the sights going in both directions so everybody had an opportunity to take pictures from the bus.

We learned that the turn around time for an ore carrier from tying up to casting off is 24 hours. in that time between 240,000 and 260,000 tons of iron ore is loaded. When an ore train arrives the locomotive pulls up to a mark at the unloading facility and goes into neutral. From that point the unloader grasps the ore car and rotates it to empty it. couplers are on swivels so the car does not have to be separated from the train. When empty the car is rotated back and pushed ahead so the next car is in place. The ore is load onto conveyors that take it to stockpiles for late loading onto ships. There are miles and miles of conveyors. From the stockpile a huge machine with enormous buckets on a large wheel, rotating on a long arm, scoop ore onto another conveyor that will take it through many junctions to the correct ship loader. This bucket wheel looks like an enormous saw blade. It devours the pile.

All of this activity is automated. As we came into the facility the guide pointed out a one story building labeled Control Center.  From here the entire operation is directed. This was a truly interesting tour. We returned to the ship, and a half hour later the ship departed.



March 1, 2015 - Sunday - Sea Day

Celebrity's policy is to have a catholic priest on board for Sundays during Lent, Easter Sunday and Christmas. The priest boarded in Perth. This was our first Mass on board. The priest is very congenial and devout. His preaching is  concise and appropriate to the readings. At the end of Mass he offered to say Mass on all sea days if there was interest. There was. We are to watch the daily program for time and location.

More lectures and more glass.

March 2, 2015 - Monday - Benoa, Bali, Indonesia

Many of the crew are Indonesian. They hope to meet family ashore here. The ship is prohibiting non-Indonesians from going ashore in order to accommodate this. This is a tender port. The tenders will be local boats. There is a lot of graft in Bali, and this requirement seems to be part of that.

The tenders operated efficiently. We have learned that the best way to get off the ship in a tender port is to take an excursion. otherwise the wait can be extensive. An hour or more. 

We booked an excursion that would take us to a wood carving studio, a silversmith, a batik making facility and a market. This started with a bus ride to the farthest point. The roads are very narrow. The buses are also narrow, have narrow aisles and very narrow seats. Our guide explained the religious background of the country, and pointed out many personal temples along the route. There were also much larger neighborhood or village temples. The road was lined with a multitude of shops selling statuary.

We arrived at the carving studio where we were shown about ten people carving various figures. It was explained that their skills were passed down from generation to generation. This was a display not a working "factory". Then we were moved to the exhibit. This was a store. The artifacts were interesting, but not something we were interested in.

The silversmith and batik stops were the same. The market was just a store. We saw some nice things, but the "craft" demonstrations were very artificial and superficial. For example, the batik demonstration used no wax at all. They did not explain the process either. They just talked about how it was labor intensive, and that justified the price. The shop seemed to be stocked with Chinese imports that looked like batik.

While the tour was disappointing in terms of how it taught us the process, it was useful for its cultural aspects and sightseeing. We returned to the ship disappointed in Benoa, and wondering where the beautiful places are.
 

NEIGHBORHOOD TEMPLE


March 3 & 4, 2015 - Tuesday & Wednesday - Sea Days

Our sea days continue to be very comfortable. We are surprised at how few other vessels we see. We know they are out there because the ports we visit are always busy.

The Hot Glass shows continue to teach and amaze. In Perth a new gaffer, Ryan Dolittle, joined the ship. She replaced Lyndsey. She seems more energetic. This may be because Lyndsey had been aboard for six months, and Ryan is just joining us. She has a different style. She produces some beautiful work.

March 5, 2015 - Thursday - Darwin, Australia

This will be a busy day for us. We chose to do a bus excursion that leaves first thing. It will be a city panorama. That means it will basically drive past the sights with a narration. We usually opt for something more in depth, but we have another goal today. We have to find Pack 'N Ship to send our prized bowl home.

The tour proved to be informative and enjoyable. We learned that on Christmas Eve, 1974 Cyclone Tracy devastated the city. 70% of the buildings were destroyed. 30,000 of the 47,000 residents had to be relocated to other metropolitan areas of Australia. Some will never return. Almost everything we saw was constructed after the storm.

What we did see is quite nice. While there is a central business district, it is rather small and easy to walk. We drove through it in a very short time. The rest of the city appears to be resort like. There are waterfront drives with beautiful views. Some nice harbors are home to sailboats and a good sized fishing fleet. There is a lot of parkland with beautiful vistas. Some of the shoreline consists of steep cliffs. The tidal range is 24 feet, and you can see where that takes its toll on the shore. Salt water crocodiles are prevalent here. Each year some deaths are attributed to these. This usually involves alcohol. The pace seems slow. People take their time and enjoy life.

We returned to Solstice very satisfied with our tour. As we went through the security checks, we noticed a couple leaving the vessel with a beautiful glass vase from the Show. We were not in a position to talk to them, but we suspected where they were going.

We stopped in the cabin to get the bowl and headed off again. Google Maps had provided a route for us. We should have no problem finding Pack N' Ship. So we thought. We followed the path, but suddenly found ourselves at the top of a cliff with no way to go on. Hm. We entered a small business office and asked where the place might be . They had no clue. A search online sparked a recollection, and the clerk said we needed to go back about two blocks to an unmarked alley. That would be the street. We retraced our steps, found the alley, and found the shop a block away. When we entered, the couple we had seen on the ship was completing the paperwork necessary to ship their vase. They were as thrilled with their prize as we were with ours. They wanted to wait until we got the cost for our shipment. They were ready to perform CPR. Their vase cost $355 Australian. Ours turned out to be $351. They were stunned that even though ours was larger than theirs, it weighed less.

They left, and we carried on with the clerk. She was most helpful. We insured it and prepared the US customs declaration. She asked when we would be returning home. She would hold it until the following week so it would not beat us home. When we arrived home on March 14, we had an email from her with a DHL tracking number. Excellent!

With our primary objective achieved we set out to explore Darwin on foot. Walking was easy, but distances were farther than anticipated. There are many memorials to the devastation of the cyclone around the central area. They are a grim reminder of the fore of nature. The city is a testimony to the grit and determination of the Aussies. When we returned home we were satisfied that we had done all that we wanted to in Darwin  





March 6 & 7, 2015 - Friday and Saturday - Cruising the Torres Strait

We are headed toward the Great Barrier Reef. A reef pilot boarded Solstice in Darwin. He will remain on board to Brisbane. This is the longest piloted passage in the world. It is necessary because the strait is very  shallow, dotted with many small islands, and is a major international shipping lane.  Coral heads also populate our track.

The seas remained very calm and our passage was uneventful. We seemed to be in sight of land the whole time. Sometimes this was the continent. Other times it was the proliferation of islands.

On Friday I went up for the Hot Glass show. It was enjoyable, as always. The raffle was held before the final piece was made. Aaron was narrating the process for the final piece. He asked us to shout out if we had any questions. I had not won the raffle, but i did notice that they  had a surplus of pieces left for the giving. So, I asked if in light of the extra pieces he thought we should have a second raffle. The crowd cheered, and he said he would think about it. When the final piece went into the annealing oven, he passed out raffle tickets. The piece was a very nice blue and violet vase made by Ryan. Megan had just finished the last piece, and was sweating profusely. Aaron chastised her for getting the ticket she pulled all wet. We went through the usual procedure of standing until the digit called was not on our tickets. We got down to the last digit, and I was still standing. Aaron called that the last digit was even. Groans. It was greater than 4. More groans. It was less than 8. Hooray! It was mine. I had not only asked for the raffle, I had won it. 

I took the beautiful vase to the cabin. Alice was amazed. At least this was something we could carry home.

March 8, 2015 - Sunday - Cairns, Australia

We anchored off of Cairns. A large catamaran pulled alongside the ship and we boarded it for our excursion to the Great Barrier Reef. We had come too far to miss this. We would not be going into the water, but we could board the glass bottomed boat and the semi-submersible for viewing sea life and the reef. While this would not be ideal, it was necessary because I was nursing wounds on my right foot from the pressure sore spawned by all of the walking I had done. I knew this was a risk. I had an appointment with the podiatrist as soon as we got home to schedule surgery to repair this

The trip out to the reef was fast and somewhat rocky, but we were not affected. The setup at the reef is quite impressive. A large pontoon is tethered there. It provides the changing area, scuba storage, snorkeling gear sanitation and a dock for the viewing boats. Very efficient.

We boarded the glass bottomed boat. In less than 50 yards we were over coral heads. The different shapes and colors of the coral were beautiful. Of course, there were fish of all sizes and hues swimming everywhere. Even a large sea turtle swam by. The captain's narration was excellent. We had a wonderful time.






We went from the glass bottomed boat directly to the semi-submersible. This was a very different experience. The fish were all around us, and we seemed to be passing through coral canyons. We would get to the edge of the reef, and the sea would turn dark blue beneath us. The fish looked larger and the coral was better defined. Another good narration. As we returned to the pontoon, we marveled at how comfortable the fish were in our presence.

We wandered around the pontoon. On the far side were the platforms used to get the snorkelers into the water. The approved swim area was well marked It was full of swimmers. Floats were strategically placed for the less capable swimmers.

Soon, too soon, it was time for the cat to return to Solstice. Before departing, the crew went through the vessel in waves to perform independent counts of the guests. The counts matched. No one was left behind. 

About an hour later we were alongside Solstice. Well, almost. The sea had built while we were away. It was to unstable to tie up as we had been tied for our departure. After considerable jockeying and turning we landed with the starboard side to Solstice and exited from the stern. It went well, but it was a lot slower than we had boarded. We were safe, and we were home.

We had vacillated about doing this tour before we left home. In January 2016 we will be back to the reef on the World Voyage. We thought that would be the time to visit the reef because my feet would be fully recovered from the repairs. In the end we decided that we should not wait because one never know what the future brings. We are glad we made that choice. Now we know we can either return to the reef or do other tours in Cairns without missing anything.

March 9 & 10, 2015 - Monday and Tuesday - Sea Days

We are on our way to Brisbane. The sea is calm. We have Islands to the west at close range. They are alluring. It would be fun to spend some time on the long beaches. Then someone commented that salt water crocs populate this area. We were safe at the reef because the crocs cannot swim that far offshore without resting. Here they can range freely. The beaches remain pretty to look at.

We and our table mates are all coughing. You cannot get into a public area without hearing somebody hacking. We have fought it of as long as we could. Now it is our turn. No fever. Just a relentless cough. We have avoided going to the medical center. I have a doctor's appointment the Monday after we get home. We will look for cough syrup in a pharmacy ashore.

March 11, 2015 - Wednesday - Brisbane, Australia

We had considered using public transportation to get to the Koala Park. After further consideration we decided to take a tour to Steve Irwin's Australia Zoo. What a great choice. The tour consisted of a bus ride to the gate and a return ride to the ship. We had four hours on our own inside the zoo. We visited crocodile enclosures, koalas, kangaroos and many more birds and animals. We attended the show, which featured several birds in flight and the essential crocodile demonstration. This was a great time. It was both entertaining and informative. We met Sharon and Jim from our table, and joined them in feeding some kangaroos. Then Alice and I took the tram that runs all around the zoo. This was a good respite for my feet.





ZOO GROUNDS
We returned to the ship very satisfied with our day.

March 12, 2015 - Thursday - Sea Day

This is our last sea day as the cruise winds down. We attended the Glass Auction. The pieces were beautiful and raised a considerable for the Corning Museum scholarship program and for Cancer research. There was some very competitive bidding going on. This a fun time because we get to see the artists all dressed up. they clean up well.

Packing consumed the rest of our time. We discovered that the odds and ends we accumulated in 52 days add up. We will be checking one of our carryons to take up this excess. Once more we discovered cloths that we never touched the whole time. We really look forward to returning to Holland America where we have free laundry. We will definitely pack lighter next time.

March 13, 2015 - Friday - Newcastle, Australia

Wow! This is our last port day.

We have done and seen so much since we stepped off the plane in Sydney on January 24. That day was filled with a happy apprehension. Now we are looking back with satisfaction over our many accomplishments. This is one more chance to attack the bucket list.

Newcastle is a compact city developed around a large harbor. Solstice docked a long way from the city center, but a free shuttle bus would bring us to the heart of things.When we disembarked the shuttle, we walked along the water's edge. The view was expansive. The main shipping passed right in front of us. It was very busy with large commercial vessels and some smaller fishing trawlers. To our right, were some historical buildings, then an entertainment district and finally, a long walk through an attractive park to a beautiful beach. The walk continued to a fort on a cliff high above the sea before extending to a lighthouse on the headlands at the harbor's mouth. This called out to us, but it would have to wait. Newcastle is another city with a free bus zone at its center.

We walked away from the water and found a substantial shopping area. We went straight to the pharmacy. Our coughs had gotten so bad that there was no way we would forget to get medicine here. We surveyed the shelves, consulted with the pharmacist and made a purchase. Hopefully this would loosen the cough and clear our ears before our flights tomorrow.

Now it was time for some fun. After a short walk we found a stop for the free bus. The driver confirmed that it was, indeed, the free bus. We settled in for our mobile exploration. We passed through several nice neighborhoods, saw some nice hotels and shopping districts. We drove past a large sports complex. Then we started to get anxious. The bus had not made any turns . Usually by now it would have been obvious that the bus was following a loop. We had gotten farther and farther from city center. We were in the suburbs. A consultation with the driver revealed that Newcastle, unlike the other cities, did not offer a loop, but a zone. When the bus passed a certain street, it was like the meter turned on and the fare began to grow. We had gone $5 out of the city center. The helpful driver told us to cross the street, wait at the bus stop sign for about 20 minutes and wave our arms when the bus appeared. He would not collect a fare from us, but he could not vouch for the next driver. We followed his instructions, and soon found ourselves pleading our case to a far less sympathetic driver. He was clearly a company man. Maybe he thought we were the "secret riders" who would turn him in, if he let us ride free. Finally he relented, and we rode back downtown.

It was time to head to the waterfront for or walk. The park was some distance away. We set it as our goal. My feet were suffering from the abuse of all the walking we had done in seven weeks. When we had finished with the park, we thought the beach was just a little further on. Why not? We set off for the beach. It was very nice, and we were glad we visited it. The fort did not seem so far. what the heck. We can do it. The walk along the break wall was unprotected and the wind was howling. This was so invigorating. As we got closer to the fort, we discovered that the path up to it was closed. Rats! The lighthouse beckoned. We had come this far, too far not to finish the walk. The wind had gotten quite fierce. Waves were crashing over the path. We had to time our passages in order to stay dry.





The views from out here were extraordinary. The skyline was very distinct in this clear air. The fort, beach and park still beckoned. We would pause at each on our way back. We strolled through the entertainment district. There were many fine restaurants. At last we stepped onto the shuttle, and made our way aboard Solstice for the last time. 

This was a great way to end our journey down under. The sights and activities far exceeded our expectations. The people really made the experience delightful. Our mix of self-guided and ship's tours gave us a strong sense of accomplishment. As we sat on the veranda reviewing our experiences, we concluded that for the very first time, we would scratch destinations from our bucket list. We will add the destination pins to our travel map. We know we will pass this way again next February. That will be relaxing as the urgency of taking everything in will be past us. We may even find that staying onboard and skipping a port is something we can handle.

Thank you for traveling along with us. We hope you can feel some of the excitement and satisfaction that cruising brings to us.

Monday, March 2, 2015

March 2, 2015 - In Bali Trying to Catch Up

February 12, 2015 - Thursday - Dunedin

We arrived in Port Chalmers to a very low cloud level, a hint of mist in the air and chilly temperatures that required jackets. A shuttle to Dunedin was provided for $15 round trip. We took it to the city center, The Octagon. A craft market was set up here. What a "surprise." We actually these handmade crafts to be very nice. As we walked around we had several interesting conversations with the crafters. They explained their wares and methods. Then they inevitably apologized for the weather. It was unusually cool, but the clouds would burn off by midday and temp would rise. We left the market thinking about some of the nice things we saw.

Our next stop was the central train station. It has beautiful brick work on the outside and lovely tile work on the inside. We returned to the Octagon. After visiting the shops here, we went to the library. An attempt at using the wifi proved futile yet again. Next stop was The First Church of Otago. After a little more shopping, all of the window variety, we took the shuttle back to Port Chalmers. It is a charming town centered around the port. Timber harvesting is the dominant industry around here. Much of this timber passes through the port. The views from our ship fascinated us. The piles of logs are vast. Trucks loaded with logs come continuously, and specialized equipment unloads an entire trailer at one time.


February 13, 2015 - Friday - New Zealand Sounds

Today dawned with a low ceiling, with the sun trying to break through. Dusky Sound would be our first scenic cruising today. It was dry. Not even a mist. We will do our viewing from our veranda. The temperature is comfortable. On our way up the New Zealand coast we left the ship at Milford Sound in pouring rain and fog. The cruising in the other sounds was done in similar conditions with limited visibility. Today we are blessed with excellent viewing. These sounds are actually fjords carved by glaciers. The walls are steep and rocky. Trees actually grow out of the rocks as it is difficult for soil to stay in place on the steep slopes.
Next came Doubtful Sound.
Finally we entered Milford Sound. This was so much better than our first entry.


The sun was shining and spirits were high. We would pick up the passengers who took the overnight excursion from Dunedin in fine weather. The narrator commented over and over about how fortunate we were to experience the best weather in the sounds of the entire season.

The crew were ecstatic. So were we!



February 14, 2015 - Saturday - At sea in the Tasman Sea

We reluctantly left New Zealand behind, as we turned toward Sydney. This Valentines Day was spent with lectures and more iPad classes. It was very relaxing before we
Had to prepare for formal night. The dining room was decorated with red and white balloons hung at the entry. Wow? Holland America has really spoiled us. They go all out with their decorations. At least the Solstice crew made it feel Celebratory.

As dinner proceeded, the sea got rougher. The motion of the ocean (Tasman Sea) was in full play. Even so, it was no where near as bad as our crossing to New Zealand. We weathered it just fine. Others were not so fortunate. We slept very well.

February 15, 2015 - Sunday - Day Two on the Tasman Sea

It is very calm today. We attended the Hot Glass Show. Celebrity has partnered with the Corning Museum of Glass to put on two hour glass blowing demonstrations on sea days. There are three gaffers from CMOG on board. Each takes a turn creating an object, while the others assist and narrate the activity. The pieces vary in size to suit the whim of the gaffer. They select their own colors, type of vessel and size.

Aaron spent his time creating a stopper for a large jar he had made the previous show. He topped the stopper with a beautiful sea horse.  Watching him do this was spellbinding. When it was completed, Meagan donned the heavily insulated Kevlar gloves and a protective hoodie. We learned that she would catch the piece, which was 1,000 degrees hot, when Aaron tapped the rod to release it. When Aaron did this there was large gasp from the audience as the piece broke away prematurely and crashed to the floor. It ended its short life as hundreds of pieces. Aaron explained the reason for the  premature separation, and said this just happens at times. That is why the craftsmen do not get too attached to their works.

Lizzy did a pink vase. It survived in fine shape. Megan made a mug with handles. As she was finishing the shape of the handles she had attached the mug crashed to the floor. Her reaction was passive. Stuff happens.

At the end of the two hours, raffle tickets were passed out to all in the audience. That was 30 to 50 people. At every show, we learned, they raffle off one or two pieces made in a previous show. Everyone stands and remains standing as the ticket digits are called out. When you do not have the number, you sit down. Last person standing gets the piece. We were not close, but Alice got some nice pictures throughout the demo. This sure helps time fly.

Tonight's dinner is in the Tuscan Grille. This specialty restaurant is an Italian steakhouse. Kristen, the concierge, had booked this for us to use our gift from Bonnie at  Cruises International. We were seated at a table for two next to a window at the stern of the ship. This is the only restaurant on the ship that has aft facing windows. It was spectacular to watch our wake from deck five.

The meal was leisurely, prepared to perfection and served in style.  The wine was an excellent match for the fine steaks. Dessert was a perfect finale. A most enjoyable experience. Thank you, Bonnie.

February 16, 2015 - Monday - Sydney

We were happy to be returning to Sydney. Our plans called for walking the botanical gardens and then walking across the Sydney Harbour Bridge. But first, we must visit the Apple Store. When we first arrived in Sydney on January 24, I discovered that my laptop seemed not to be booting properly. The display was 50 Shades of Gray. Not very sexy!

The ship is partners with Apple for technology, so they provide a free internet link to Apple's website. I had found the address and hours for the nearest store. At 8:30 we headed off. As we approached the store we saw a long line outside. It was five minutes to opening. We joined the line and when the doors opened we were directed to the third floor Genius Bar. The line on three was long. When we checked in we were told that the earliest appointment we could get was 1 PM. There was no special treatment for travel emergencies. We booked the appointment, and went out to make the best of our four hour wait.

We were very near the Queen Victoria Building. That was our first photo stop. Next we found St. Andrew Cathedral. It sits on a beautiful square, but it was closed. We looked for a seat on the square and tried to use the free wifi. Dismal failure.

We checked our map, and found that Darling Harbor was not far away.  On our first visit to Sydney we had taken the ferry to Darling Harbor in the rain. We were disappointed. This time we walked in glorious sunshine. A pedestrian way was provided to get us over and across a sprawling highway interchange. It brought us right to the Information Center in Darling Harbor. We grabbed a detailed map and set off to enjoy the parks and vistas around the water. Preparations for the celebration of the Lunar New Year were in full swing. The large lantern displays were wonderful. As we walked on, the water features rimming the harbor were delightful. We were pretty thorough in our visit, but it was still only 11:00 when we finished.

We trudged back to the Apple Store. I tried to have our appointment moved up with no results. The employee suggested a place to sit and use the wifi in the store. What a great connection. After an hour of checking emails and preparing a blog post, I went to check in at noon for our 1:00 appointment. The young lady noted where we were seated, and told us she would get us when they were ready. Ten minutes after twelve we were being introduced to our genius. She tried several bench tests before telling me she would take it to the back where another tech would perform more advanced testing. She would be gone about ten minutes. Twenty five minutes later she returned. Not smiling. They had found that the computer was booting properly and outputting video. My display is dead. A replacement will be $800 plus labor. It would take several days, and is really not worth it in a six year old machine. Glad I have my iPad.

We walked back to Solstice, grabbed some lunch, then headed to our favorite information center in The Rocks. The same lady who helped us on Australia Day helped us again. She even remembered us. She showed us the way to get to the approach to the Harbour bridge, and off we went. The walk was direct, and not aroute we would have chosen. Visiting Louisa saved us a lot of backtracking.

Our first stop was the pylons, the large concrete structures that support the span. On this side, The Rocks side, there's is an observation deck at the top of the pylon. At almost 200 steps up we decided to walk on. In just a bit we paused to watch a group of bridge climbers begin their ascent. They paid $200 each, were stripped of anything that might fall off, clothed in special suits and tethered to safety rails. I am sure the experience is worth it. Twenty years ago we might have done it. We walked on. The views of the harbor and opera house were super. We noticed a few padlocks on the screening that prevents jumpers and throwers from doing their thing. The locks ere engraved with names, usually couples, an dates. When I say a few locks, we counted just six on our side of the bridge. We walked all the way to the north side of the bridge.


Before returning we stopped to talk to a security officer. He explained that the bridge is decided into segments. Each has an assigned officer, who walks his post pausing at each limit. The man we spoke with said he calculated that he walks 30 kilometers a day. That is almost 18 miles. He was very fit in addition to being very pleasant.

We walked back to our starting point to begin a final walk around The Rocks. We were a bit sad, but once again found new things to admire. From the bridge we had noticed a colorful array of figures in a park just near the bridge. We wound our way to it, and found life sized models of the Terra Cotta Warriors. These were fabric figures with lighting inside that turned on at sunset. We did not count them, but there were many. This was another part of theLunar New Year celebration.

Solstice was a short walk away. We returned for dinner and sail away. We departed at 10 PM. The city lights were brilliant, and the Warriors were all aglow. We bid a very fond farewell to Sydney with some sadness because our next visit here will be to disembark and dash for the airport on March 14th.


February 17, 2015 - Tuesday - Sea Day

The highlight of the day was attendance at another Hot Glass Show. These artisans are so talented they make complex creations look simple. And they do it with speed. Their teamwork is admirable. In just two hours each gaffer makes one piece. These vary in type, color and size. We did not win the raffled piece, but really enjoyed the show.

We continued to be disappointed with lectures offered by Celebrity. On sea days we are offered one talk on local birds and animals and a second on the US space program. What about the local geology or astronomy or heritage. Talks about the ports we are about to visit would be welcomed. The only port talks are to sell shore excursions. We get no city maps, information on the use of local transport or what sights are convenient to the pier. If the Internet service was reliable and reasonably they might argue that we could Google for ourselves. That is not a practical option, and we should not have to waste time learning these things off the ship. One of the joys of our travels is the local experience. Standing in line at the tourist office does not count. Holland America wins this one hands down. They provide all of these missing pieces.

February 18, 2015 - Wednesday - Melbourne

A free city shuttle took us from the ship to the art museum in the city center. There we sat on a bench to check the map we received at the info center and plan our day. After just a few minutes, a friendly woman approached us to ask if we needed assistance. She offered plenty of suggestions and helpful tips. We incorporated many of these into our plan.

First we walked to Federation Square. We tried the wifi with uncertain results. We later found that some of our pictures had finally uploaded. Bravo!

From here we boarded the "antique" tram. It runs a free loop around the central business district, and includes a narration. 17 years ago, when we were here we rode the same line. The cars are just as rickety, but the route has been extended quite a bit. As we rode, we came to understand why. The development over these 17 years has been phenomenal. Residential and retail buildings, many of them high rises, now stretch from downtown to the harbor. As we completed this loop we exited the tram near the sports complex and Fitzroy Gardens.

Since the Melbourne Open is over, the tennis venues were closed. We opted to observe them from a distance, and headed to the gardens. Good choice! The gardens are a huge park in the middle of a highly desirable neighborhood. It is rather like Lincoln Park in Chicago. It was peaceful and uncrowded. We easily spent two hours here,strolling leisurely. We visited all of the major garden features, including the many fountains.

When we left the gardens, we were just a few blocks from St. Patrick Cathedral. Our visit here was limited because Mass was being celebrated for Ash Wednesday. We were disappointed to learn that ashes had already been distributed.

Across from the cathedral we boarded a modern tram to Box Hill. We had no idea what to expect, but Box Hill was the end of the line, and the ride was included with our transit day pass. This proved to be another lucky choice. Our 45 minute ride took us through many neighborhoods. Many of them were oriental. Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese. There were block after block of ethnic restaurants. We passed several private schools where uniformed students, on their way home, boarded the tram. The style of the housing changed many times. Some homes were small and directly next to each other, while some were larger with spacious lots. All were well kept.

At the end of the line we followed the signs for Box Hill Central. These took us through a small square. We were looking for a city center. Not to be. Box Hill Central is a huge indoor mall. As one might expect there were shops with goods of every kind. The food court was huge, and beyond it was a very large food market. All of this was oriental. This was Lunar New Year's Eve. The mall was packed with people preparing for their parties. We focused on the food market. The produce was beautiful, the meats and fish were all refrigerated, and the aisles were mobbed. Prices were high by our experience, but reasonable by Australian standards. Suffering sensory overload, we returned to the tram station.

Back in the city center we changed trams for the ride to the harbor and the Solstice. We passed several small boat harbors with beautiful yachts before arriving at the end of the line for our short walk home.

Melbourne was very, very good for us.

February 19, 2015 - Thursday - Sea Day

The day's highlight was the Hot Glass Show. This is by far the most entertaining activity on sea days. These artisans are very talented, and each demonstrates a different style. Aaron has been blowing glass for 15 years. 7 of those years he worked at the Steuben glass studio. His work reflects the precision and artistry of that experience. He creates the larger and heavier pieces, but is also capable of doing very fine work. The ladies seem to lack the strength for large pieces. They make up for that with their extraordinary use of color.

Have not said much about dining. The food is well prepared and artfully presented. Our serving team for this segment is much better than our last team. The food is always hot, not just warm. The pacing is excellent. We never feel rushed. That is due to the perfect timing of Christopher, our waiter, and Gezim, his assistant. Gezim does the hard job of collecting the meals in the kitchen, and bringing them promptly to the serving station. Christopher wastes no time in bringing them to the table. They then maintain a watchful eye, and remove courses efficiently. All the while Sogondo watches our wine levels. He appears like magic as needed. Just as we finish dessert, he delivers our grasshoppers. We hope we will have this same team for our next segment.

Sleep continues to come with ease.

February 20, 2015 - Friday - Adelaide

When we arrived at the port of Adelaide, we learned that the city center was a 30 minute train ride away. We joined the throng at the outer harbor station just as the train was about to leave. We would buy our tickets when we left the train, but before we could leave the station. The ride was pleasant, smooth and on time. As we left the train we were directed to the lines for purchasing tickets. This went smoothly and we left the station.

After a brief walk past parliament and government house, we boarded the free city center circulator bus. After about five minutes we had a change of drivers. A few stops later a woman boarded and sat near the driver. She was a regular passenger on this run, and the driver asked her if her friends had come in on the "boat". When she said they had, he said he would likely see passengers in the afternoon. I chimed up that we were already here. The driver was delighted and asked if we would like commentary. Of course we said yes. We expected him to turn on an automated narration. No way. He started calling out the sights and explaining the history of Adelaide. This city was planned in England, built on a rectangular grid. To this day it is expanding in this fashion. At one point he told us that if we took the tram in front of the train station heading south, it would take us to Glenelg, a beach resort. At the end of the bus circuit we stopped at the Heigh's Chocolates shop, and bought some chocolate covered almonds.

We boarded the tram to Glenelg. 45 minutes later we were at the end of the line in charming square with hotels, restaurants and bars all around. Walking through the square took us to the beach. It was beautiful. We walked out on the jetty and surveyed the beach as far as we could see in both directions. What lovely sand. It was being well used by young and old. The water was crystal clear.

Back at the square we had ice cream before boarding the 3:00 tram to the city. There we would catch the 4:12 train back to the outer harbor. All went smoothly. This train would get us to the harbor at 5:05. At 4:40 we stopped at a station, and did not leave. Eventually it was announced that the delay was because the train ahead of us had mechanical difficulties. All aboard was 5:45. Our 40 minute safety window shrunk with each minute we sat in the station. There were a lot of passengers and several crew aboard. The delay extended to twenty minutes and people became very nervous.


Alice and I were sitting with another couple from the ship, a fiddle player on his way home and a young lady, who had boarded the train a couple of stops earlier. She knew the fiddle player. We had been having a good conversation before the stoppage. They asked about our next port. When we told them it was Esperance, they scratched their heads. Although they both lived in Adelaide, they had never heard of Esperance. They googled it, and decided there is really nothing to do there. Must be why they never heard of it.

As the delay grew longer, passengers started leaving the train to find taxis. We and the couple sitting with us remained calm. The local girl said the last time this happened she was stuck on the train for an hour. But she said not to worry. There would not be enough cabs and the transit system would send buses for us if needed. At the thirty minute mark came the announcement that we would resume travel. Two stations later we stopped again. When we moved on, we were 50 minutes late. More people had abandoned the train. We felt that with the combined passenger count of the train ahead of us, our train and the train behind us there would be far too many passengers to leave us behind.

At the next stop we picked up all of the passengers from the train ahead of us. Our local friends alighted at the next stop. The girl had phoned her uncle to meet us here to drive us to the ship, just in case. She called him off. How nice of her to offer help to us. We made it to the harbor stop 10 minutes after all aboard and 5 minutes before sail away. There were several hundred of us. Officers were there to tell us to take our time. Crew had kept them well informed. We were never in danger of being left behind

Dinner was relaxing and excellent. Afterwards we attended the 8:00 PM Hot Glass show. It was fun to close out our day watching the glow of 2,000 degree glass.

February 21, 2015 - Saturday - Sea Day


I spent much of the day updating this blog, but at 2:30 I left to attend another Hot Glass show. This would be my fourth show. Alice admonished me to win something.

Watching the glass blowing was, again, spellbinding. Raffle time came. Aaron talked about the charity auction they would hold in 2 days. He held up a large Amber colored apple and then a very large pale lavender bowl with "floppy" sides. He wanted us to vote on which one should be auctioned off. The voting was close, but the apple would go to the auction.
Raffle tickets were distributed. The large bowl would be the prize. The procedure is that everyone stands. Then, as the digits are called off we cheer if we have it or boo and sit down, if we do not. All tickets have the first three of the six digits. Then it gets interesting. I made it past the 4th number, then the 5th number. There were just 10 of us remaining. We had gotten this far twice before. This time I won! The beautiful bowl was ours. Aaron engraved the bottom with his name and year, and handed it over to me. I beamed with joy. There had been no piece given away that rivaled this one for beauty and size. I carried it to our room with pride past some very envious passengers.

When I took it into the cabin, Alice was flabbergasted. We both love it. The challenge is to get it home.

February 22, 2015 - Sunday - Sea Day


Today was the Hot Glass auction day. They put 7 pieces into the auction. Two from each of the gaffers are auctioned for the Corning Museum of Glass scholarship fund. Then one pice created by Megan is auctioned for the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Megan's mom and sister were both diagnosed with cancer two years ago.

The auction went very well. Aaron's apple went for $350. His fish sold for $550. The cancer research pice made $400. All were happy. I was still beaming.

February 23, 2015 - Monday - Esperance

Esperance is a tender port. We received tickets for tender call 31 at 9:00. At 10:15 our number was called. After a bouncy 30 minute tender ride with a following swell, we were ashore in Esperance. We opted to visit on our own, so we walked from the pier toward town.

This is a small town with a lot of park land and some beautiful beaches. It has a very nice historical museum. One of its features is the remains of Skylab that fell to earth over Esperance in 1979. The city was so outraged by the debris field it left that they fined the US $400 for littering. After some protesting, the fine was paid.

We walked all around the town center. After leaving the museum grounds we walked out to the beach. The water was beautiful, and locals were picnicking in the long park that runs the length of the beach. We visited shops and talked to the locals. We continue to be impressed with their friendliness. A walk to the mall took us through a nice neighborhood of modest homes.the mall anchor was a very large supermarket. It was very well stocked, but still no prepared sandwiches in the deli.

In one of the many sporting goods stores we bought a hat for Alice. This was to replace the nice trekking hat she had brought from home. We do not know where it disappeared. I may have left it on one of the buses when I put our day pack in the overhead. We hope somebody is getting good use out of it. The new hat is very similar. We talked with the store owner at some length. He told us that their economy depends on shipping grains and ore. The area outside of town is very agricultural. Tourism is the other income producers. Cruise ships like ours are a rarity, but they get about 500 small tour ships a year.

As we headed back to the tender pier, Alice spied a sewing store. They were a Janome dealer. We spent a long time talking to the two ladies who run it. One of them had actually come to the states a year ago for the rollout of the Janome 15000, Alice's new machine. They love it, but are also intimidated by its power. Alice was right at home talking to them.of course the accountant in me wanted to know about pricing. They were quite open to talking about it. With their current special pricing the price is comparable to what we paid. Two more delightful Aussie friends.

At 1:45 we were in the tender line. At 2:00 we boarded a tender.  The swells looked higher and the wind had picked up. Little did we know what we were in for. As we left the pier the pitching fore and aft began. The helmsman was doing an admirable job of approaching waves  in a direction to minimize the rising and falling of the tender. As good as he was there was still a lot of screaming from frightened passengers. Alice and I were seated in the second row on the port side. We had a clear view of the approaching waves. They were getting bigger and the efforts to ease the crashing was taking us farther away from Solstice. Slowly we turned toward the ship and tried to run in the wave troughs. After considerable battering we arrived at the tender platform with two other tenders. We were third in line. We felt like we were at the end of a long amusement park ride. For us it had been exhilarating, while for others it had been terrifying. It was similar to the end of a passage we once made with Sean on Blue Dolphin to Rock Hall, MD in building winds. We finally disembarked the tender in wildly bouncing seas.